A Walking Tour of North Creek
PRODUCED BY THE FIRST WILDERNESS STORY COLLABORATION
We will soon launch a GPS-triggered audio walking tour of North Creek.
New York State Teaching Artist Brian Chevalier will do the narration. Three Skidmore College students — Annie Kiernan, Carmelina Albanese, and Dominic Giordano — are assisting, as are a dozen historians and long-time residents whose help we acknowledge at the end of our script.
Brian Chevalier
DRAFT SCRIPT FOR ‘BETA’ VERSION
Introduction
Welcome to North Creek, the last stop on Thomas Durant's Adirondack Railroad. That made it the gateway to the great camps of the Adirondacks and an important center for freight and commerce.
The railroad also made it easy to get to Gore Mountain. That’s why the Schenectady Wintersports Club picked North Creek as the destination of its first Snow Train on March 4, 1934 — 90 years ago. It was here that Carl Schaefer in 1935 jerry-rigged an old Buick to create New York’s first rope tow. In 1946, town leaders built a 3000-foot T-bar, the longest in the East at that time. In 1964, New York State established the Gore Mountain Ski Area, which has been growing ever since.
On this 1.5-mile walking tour, we’ll tell you place-by-place this community’s remarkable story. First we’ll follow North Creek to its intersection with the Hudson River. Then we’ll turn toward the rail yard, the North Creek Depot Museum, and other historic buildings that served the Adirondack Railroad and then the Delaware & Hudson Railroad. Then we’ll turn again to return on Main Street, exploring the shops and businesses that the arrival of the railroad in 1871 helped to generate.
We’ve built into this tour 25 short GPS-triggered stories. To hear our first, look both ways and cross the street to the steps of the Tannery Pond Community Center. If it’s open, go in. We’d like to show you something.
Ten Main Street businesses advertised on this hand-painted curtain, which hung in the O’Keeffe Opera House.
It’s the O’Keeffe Opera House curtain, which hung for a half century in a large hall on the second floor above the R.R. Higgins Drug Store, a building and business that was later acquired by pharmacist James O’Keeffe. The O’Keeffe Opera House was for several decades the center of North Creek’s social life, hosting plays, lectures, dances, church services, political rallies, silent movies, and even high school graduations.
Ten Main Street businesses commissioned the production of this hand-painted curtain, which served as an early form of advertising. When the Tannery Pond Community Center opened in 2002 thanks to a gift from Elise and Woody Widlund, the Johnsburg Historical Society found the perfect place to hang the 10-foot by 17-foot curtain as a reminder of the community’s history early in the 20th century. We’ll tell you about these businesses on our tour’s last leg on Main Street.
You’ll find other mementos from North Creek’s past here as well as a gallery that’s open Tuesday through Friday between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. and between noon and 4 p.m. on Saturdays.
Tannery Pond Center derives its name from the tannery that Milton Sawyer and Wheeler Meade built nearby in 1852. We’ll show you where it was.
To the right of the building, follow the driveway that leads both to a loading dock and to the path that will take us along North Creek to the Hudson. That’s where we’ll enter the woods.
Mill Pond
Following the path you’ll find at the end of the Tannery Pond Center’s driveway, you’ll come Immediately to an interpretive sign that shows you Mill Pond as it once looked – until storms washed out for good the dam that had been built in the late 1840s.
On the first part of our tour, you’re walking along what essentially was the bottom of Mill Pond.
Soon after the sign, you'll come to a wall that we surmise was part of the concrete and stone dam built by George Ives to replace the log and timber structures that had preceded it. A lumberman, Ives also built a sluice high on Gore Mountain down which he could send logs to the pond employing water from Roaring Brook.
William Waddell tells the story of a young Ives employee named Kenneth Eldridge who, for a lark, decided to ride a log a short distance down the sluice and jumped onto a four-foot piece.
“He found that the thing went so fast he was unable to get off. He took a wild ride all the way down and dropped off the end of the sluice some 15 feet in the Mill Pond. He was very lucky there were not many pieces of wood in the pond as he could have been thrown on them and killed.”
As the trail takes you around this wall, look to your left at the substantial clearing and toward the North Creek Laundromat on Bridge Street. That's where the main building of the tannery stood, about the length of a football field. At its peak, the tannery transformed as many as 30,000 hides annually into rugged leather for saddles and shoes.
Before the tannery, lumberjacks built the first semi-permanent structures here for themselves and their horses between 1840 and 1850. They did much of their cutting in winter so they could more easily transport their 13-foot logs by horse-drawn sleds and stack them by the side of the creek. When the snow melt was at its highest each spring, they shoved them into the stream to float them down to the Hudson, where they embarked on a 40-mile journey to the sawmills of Glens Falls.
The tannery built by Milton Sawyer and Wheeler Meade in 1852 was North Creek's first real business that required the construction of housing. They used the creek not as a means of transport, but as an energy source. Mill Pond’s water wheel drove the scrapers and hammers that cleaned and softened the hides before they were placed in large tannin-filled vats. Ultimately, they would employ 25 men and annually transform into leather as many as 30,000 hides sourced chiefly from Brazil and Argentina.
Those countries had the cattle, but we had the tannin from hemlocks that was essential in the tanning process. Hides arrived by ship at the Port of Albany. They they were packed on barges on the Champlain and feeder canals and brought to Glens Falls. The hides were then stacked on wagons and brought to North Creek along rough plank roads. Hides were also delivered to tanneries at the Glen, Wevertown, and Oregon, southwest of Bakers Mills.
Glenn Pearsall writes:
“Imagine the sights and smells of this active tannery with its men shouting orders above the sound of tannery machinery, the smells of raw hides and the tannery “baths,” and the horses helping to bring in the hemlock bark stacked tall on wagons and sleds.”
“Hides were salted and dried to preserve them for the long trips to eastern seaboard ports. Hides were often packed with flesh and dirt that caused parts of them to rot. Some hides had holes that were caused by ticks and other insects common to more tropical regions. Getting the hides to the tanner was surely dirty, smelly work.”
Hemlocks would be cut, stripped of their bark, and left on the ground to decay. With four tanneries in Johnsburg alone, much of the land around here was left barren and its waters polluted in the mid and late 1800s.
Here's how a New York Times reporter described the East Branch of the Sacandaga River in 1889, where the Oregon tannery was located:
"The foul combination of the hemlock juices and malodorous hides flows in an inky stream into the river which kills the fish that have the misfortune of swimming into it from their mountain streams."
Six years later, voters would approve the addition of the Forever Wild clause to the New York State Constitution, strengthening the protections that had been imposed when the State Forest Preserve was created in 1885.
Tanneries typically would have to close within 20 to 40 years because all hemlocks within a ten-mile radius would be destroyed. That's what happened to North Creek's tannery. After it burned in 1890, Billy Baker built a sawmill on the site, opening it on August 29th. Three days later, half of it was destroyed when the dam went out. He rebuilt it two weeks later, showing the kind of determination that was typical of these early settlers.
Before the dam was washed out for the last time in the 1940s, James O’Keeffe, the local pharmacist, ran an ice-harvesting operation here.
He would hire several teams of men and horses to cut the ice by hand and then, with pike poles, push the cakes up a ramp and onto a sled, which the horses would drag to O’Keeffe’s pharmacy. They then lugged the ice into the basement, where they would stack it and pack it in sawdust.
There were no refrigerators in those days, so the ice was needed to keep food cold in the warmer months. “A full cake would sell for fifty cents and a half cake for twenty-five cents,” writes his son Dan O’Keefe in Halfway to Heaven, his invaluable memoir of “livin’ in the ‘Crick.’”
Adirondack Railroad
As the major promoter of the Union Pacific Railroad, Thomas Durant was made rich in part by his role in the Credit Mobilier debacle, which we learned briefly in our American history classes was the most egregious political scandal in the 19th century.
But we can say this much for Durant: He knew how to get things done, and he did a lot for North Creek. After Sawyer and Meade opened their tannery in 1852, Durant established a home here and acquired large tracts of land all the way to Blue Mountain Lake, Raquette Lake, and Long Lake. In North Creek, he built a sawmill and wood-working mill. And, in 1865, he started building the Adirondack Railroad, starting in Saratoga Springs and following the west bank of the Hudson River 60 miles to North Creek. Way back in 1848, a first attempt was made by the Saratoga and Sackets Harbor Railroad, which laid 20 miles of disconnected track north of Hadley, but the venture failed. As the end of the Civil War neared, Durant resurrected that effort.
Born in Lee, Massachusetts in 1820, Durant had planned to become a doctor and actually earned a degree from Albany Medical College in 1840. But instead of practicing medicine, he promptly joined his uncle’s flour and grain business and started speculating in stocks. In time, he achieved a remarkable ability to manipulate stocks, especially railroad stocks. Being volatile and plentiful, they were an especially promising terrain for grifters, a bit like crypto today.
During the Civil War, Durant used his participation in the Missouri & Mississippi Railroad to make a fortune smuggling contraband cotton from the Confederate States. He parlayed those profits into a scheme to control the Union Pacific Railroad, through which he was able to make additional millions by overcharging the government for the track he laid for the Transcontinental Railroad.
In 1869, Durant was there with Leland Stanford at Promontory Point, Utah to drive the celebrated golden spike. By that time, he had completed 37 miles of his Adirondack Railroad to Thurman. Two years later, he reached North Creek with a plan to extend the railroad first to the big McIntyre iron mine in Tahawus and onward to the western shore of Lake Ontario.
The Erie Canal had been one big idea for opening the young nation's interior. Durant's was another. Via the Great Lakes, he would transport passengers, manufactured goods, and natural resources from the Adirondacks to the Midwest.
After reaching North Creek, Durant wanted to go another 120 miles, but the Financial Panic of 1873 nearly wiped him out. It touched off a six-year depression and made further financing of the railroad impossible. But North Creek thrived. The railroad brought in tourists and made it cheaper to transport hides and leather, garnet ore, iron ore, and wood products.
Durant’s charter with the New York State gave him control of nearly one-fifth of the Adirondacks. He ultimately acquired more than one million acres free of taxes for 20 years. He envisioned the Adirondacks as a wilderness from which to wrest further wealth. He saw it also as an immense playground that his son William would develop by inventing the Adirondack “Great Camp.” His most renowned creations include Camp Pine Knot, Sagamore Camp, and Camp Uncas, all showcasing rustic elegance, native materials, and superb mountain craftsmanship. Buyers included Carnegies, Vanderbilts, Morgans, and Rockefellers.
Durant started his railroad with one engine called the General Hancock, a passenger car, a mail and baggage car, and four or five flat cars. Then he quickly doubled the number of engines, passenger, mail and baggage cars and added fifty freight cars, storing them in the large railroad yard to which we'll soon bring you.
Thomas Durant built the first bridge over North Creek for his Adirondack Railroad. You’ll pass under this on our tour.
If you haven't already reached the bridge that told north-bound passengers they were about to pull into the North Creek station, you soon will. We're about a third of a mile from the station at this point.
Hudson River Bridge
Coming up on your right is the first bridge to be built over the Hudson River in North Creek. The year: 1875. The abutments flanking the bridge on both sides are original. The bridge was used for a time to transport titanium ore mined at Tahawus acrss the Hudson on 52 sleds. Once across the bridge, the ore would be loaded into railroad cars and shipped to Northern Iron Company in Port Henry to improve the product. An interpretive sign describes the near catastrophe that occurred during the winter of 1913-14 when a 30-foot ice front was reported to be coming down the river, threatening the bridge. Over the years ice jams took their toll on the bridge, and it was replaced in 1929 and renovated in 1974.
This bridge was used to transport titanium ore from Tahawas across the Hudson.
Waddell Buildings
There was a time when the railyard extended all the way to this point. Thomas Durant built a sawmill here beside the Hudson even before completing his railroad to North Creek. Between 1905 and the early 1930s, Dr. Lee Somerville operated a mill here that made broom handles and “mangle rolls,” which were used in wash tubs of the time to wring out water and press fabrics.
Coming up on your right as you pass through the rail yard will be the William R. and Lee Waddell Buildings, which they built in 1901 on land they bought from William W. Durant. After establishing a successful general store in Wevertown in 1865, the brothers set their sights on North Creek. First, they established a slaughterhouse that produced beef and lamb mostly for such hotels as the Prospect House on Blue Mountain Lake and other hotels on Indian Lake. Then they established a stage line that ran 20 miles from North Creek to Indian Lake. They used one of the buildings as a stabling area.
William was also a partner in the stage line that ran from Riverside — now called Riparius — to the great Gilded Age hotels on Schroon Lake. When motor cars and Stanley Steamers came on the market around 1910, William was among the first to use them. No longer needing horses, he converted the stables into stores for grain, hay and coal.
Bill Waddell recalls working here with his father. “We unloaded coal onto a large piece of cement,” he says. “Then we’d take it out to homes in my father’s pick-up truck.”
This may be a good time to fill you in on the broader history not only of the Adirondack Railroad, but the Adirondack Branch of the Delaware & Hudson Railroad. That’s what these tracks officially became in 1902 when the D&H completed its acquisition of Durant's creation. It marked a new era in the railroad's history, characterized by expansion, modernization, and a pivotal role in regional development. The D&H upgraded the infrastructure with heavier rails, better locomotives, and more comfortable passenger cars.
For the next half-century, the railroad remained a vital conduit for transporting timber, minerals and other products to broader markets, and the ease and comfort of rail travel made towns like Saratoga Springs and North Creek accessible to more people. Resorts and hotels thrived.
However, as more people began to favor the convenience of car travel, demand for passenger rail service dwindled. The D&H terminated passenger service on the branch in 1956 and freight service in 1989.
Revolution Rail Co. launched its innovative rail cycling operation here in 2017, repurposing a section to give visitors a new way to experience the the Adirondacks. While there has been a discussion about pulling up the tracks and turning the entire route into a rail trail, that's a step many are reluctant to take, surmising that it might again someday become economical on these tracks to transports a titanium-iron oxide mineral called ilmeniten from Tahawus. Due to its strength, light weight and resistance to corrosion, titanium is usedn in aerospace, military and industrial processes, and such consumer products as paint, plastics, and paper. This 30 mile stretch of track was built during World War II for exactly that purpose.
Let’s continue toward the Waddell Buildings and the museum.
North Creek Rail Station
Built by Thomas Durant in 1874, the North Creek Railroad Station was on the brink of demolition in 1993 when a group of local residents formed the North Creek Railway Depot Preservation Association and purchased the station. Today, the station serves as a museum of local history, showcasing the railroad’s rich heritage and the pivotal role it played in the region's development.
One of its exhibits spotlights Teddy Roosevelt's celebrated midnight ride in the early hours of September 14, 1901. That’s when he was summoned from the base of Mount Marcy to join a dying William McKlnley in Buffalo. Roosevelt received the somber news of McKinley's death on this station’s platform.
Another exhibit spotlights the railroad's role in the development of skiing at Gore Mountain.
This story begins early in the Great Depression when Lake Placed hosted the 1932 Olympics. For the first time, upstate New Yorkers saw world-class athletes competing in cross-country skiing, hockey, speed skating, ski jumping, figure skating, and the "bobsleigh." Norway’s amazing Sonja Henie won gold in figure skating. Eddie Eagan won gold in the bobsleigh, making him only the second American athlete in history to win gold medals in both the Summer and Winter Olympics. He had won gold in boxing in 1920.
The games were an eye-opener for a half-dozen young men from North Creek who returned home determined to revive the economy and turn Gore Mountain into a destination for skiing. Driving five miles up the road that led to Barton Mine, they cleared an old logging road to a width of ten to 30 feet and named it the Pete Gay Trail.
For 25 young people from Schenectady — many who worked at GE — the experience was similarly life-changing. Launching the Schenectady Winter Sports Club, they started organizing a “Snow Train” to take them to more mountainous terrain. Joining the trail-builders in North Creek, they organized the first Snow Train on March 4, 1934, 90 years ago. So popular did the D&H become as a convenient way to get to ski country the railroad started scheduling Snow Trains from Albany and New York City as well. The popularity of skiing at Gore grew throughout the Great Depression, making North Creek a national success story.
Let’s continue up Railroad Place.
The North Creek Rail Station on March 4, 1934, the day of the first Snow Train.
North Creek Woodworking Corporation
By now you may have spotted opposite the museum a great tower with a pot-like vessel on top. You might be wondering what purpose this served in its day. You need to know first that this building was once home to the North Creek Woodworking Corporation, making such simple wooden items as handles, knobs, pallets, and heels for ladies’ shoes.
“On a good day, 15 to 20 people worked here,” says Tom Butler, who was employed by the company in his teens. “There was a large enclosed system for handling sawdust, a big funnel with a reverse airplane propeller to collect it and drive it to the tower. That’s where the sawdust would be poured into carriers hauled by trucks.”
Sawdust was a valued commodity in those days, being an absorbent material to clean up spills, a form of mulch, and an insulator. It also was used in cat litter.
Let’s keep going toward Main Street.
Phoenix Inn Resort
American Hotel
When the Adirondack Railroad arrived in 1871, hotels were among the first businesses to be established and naturally they were built nearby. That’s why the large three-story Beehive Hotel was built on the empty lot we now find on the corner across from North Creek Woodworking. And that’s why John McInerny built the American Hotel in 1871 on the site of today’s Phoenix Inn Resort. Fire destroyed the American Hotel in 1903, but Jake Waldron gave it another go in 1920. With steam heat, a beautiful garnet bar, and dance floor, the New American Hotel was a favored place for the community to gather and enjoy country bands.
The small red cottage across the street from the hotel and to the left near Main Street's intersection with Railroad Place is known as the Owens House. Once the home of the Owens family, the Owens House is now owned by the North Creek Depot Museum. It’s closed pending a renovation for which the museum is seeking funding.
Carl Schaefer operated his ski school from the New American Hotel during the winter of 1935-36. That was the same ski season he created New York State’s first rope tow after studying how they did it in Woodstock, Vermont. He created a system of poles and pulleys through which rope could be driven when wrapped around the rear axel of a 1929 Buick he bought for $100. The next year he moved his ski school and the tow to a nearby parcel he named Skiland. The old Buick that drove the tow is still up there, a few hundred yards from the road that leads up to the Gore Mountain Ski Area.
Greg Schaefer, son of Carl Schaefer, sits back in the Buick that drove his father’s rope tow first at the Ski Bowl and then Skiland.
It should be mentioned that Carl’s older brother was Vincent Schaefer, the GE scientist who organized the Schenectady Wintersports Club and the first Snow Train. Lois Perrett, the woman Vincent would later marry, established the first Ski Patrol.
Developer Eliot Monter replaced the American Hotel with the 31-room Copperfield Inn in 1990. Renamed the Phoenix Inn Resort in 2017, the hotel was purchased by Zihan “Hannah” Ren and and her father Buhai Ren early in 2023. It’s fitting that the community’s largest hotel still operates on the site of the old American Hotel.
Phoenix Inn Resort
The Tassi House
When you think of Adirondack architecture, you might picture first the typical Adirondack Great Camp, with its lavish log siding, stone fireplaces, and twig furniture. That's the style that William W. Durant innovated for the wealthy. Most Adirondack locals lived in simple one- or two-story farmhouses, while retail stores were similarly unpretentious, with commercial operations on the ground floor and living quarters above. In addition to the two-story porches on their front facades, common features of this style included clapboard and wood shingles, double hung and plate glass windows and such details as brackets, paneled doors, and decorative posts and cornices.
This house is named for Louis Tassi, a cobbler who ran his business in the small building next door. It was constructed as a three-family residence in 1926 by J. Frank Waldron, a builder whose work is reflected in a number of Main Street structures.
The Tassi House
Formerly Tassi’s Shoe Shop
Smith's Restaurant
Next we come to the building that was home to Smith's Restaurant, established by Frank and Anna Smith in 1924. This originally was a bakery with its public space on the street level and residence and overhanging porch above. When Adirondack guides came out of the woods, when river drivers brought their logs down the Hudson River gorge, when prohibition rum runners stopped for a break on their way to New York, when the first ski trains pulled into North Creek, this landmark restaurant was there to feed them.
“They had a bakery downstairs,” Tom Butler recalls. “In the early morning, you could smell those fresh donuts and buns. The aroma came up through. You usually ate about twice what you're supposed to. All the truckers and loggers stopped there with their log trucks."
Directly across the street was the Red Diner, which had the best cheeseburgers and hot turkey sandwiches.
“It was like a street diner you’d find down in Albany with a curved roof and stools and benches and more seating in the back,” says Tom. “You could probably seat 40 to 50 people. It had fabulous cooks, a Wurlitzer jukebox, and pinball machines for the young ones to play.”
Formerly Smith’s Restaurant
Hudson River Trading Company
Frank Kelly's Livery
In the days before automobiles, people needed a place to keep their horses and carriages. In North Creek, this was it, built by Frank Kelly. Signs of this early use are still clearly evident, as Laurie Arnheiter, the building's current owner, will be glad to show you if the store is open. Horses had their own entrance on the ground floor, while carriages were parked upstairs. After Kelly died, C.W. Sullivan reopened his grocery store in this building after his first grocery right next door was destroyed by fire. Laurie's family opened the Hudson River Trading Company here in 1996. After filling 7,000-square feet of retail space in this building, she acquired the historic "Dr. Lee" building next door and opened the Hungry Crow as a market and tasting room.
Hudson River Trading Company
Hungry Crow
Doctor Lee House
Long forgotten, Lee's Save the Baby was a popular cough remedy in the early 1900s. Made from petrolatum, camphor, oregano, rosemary, and balsam oils, it was rubbed on the chest like Vick's Vaporub. The inventor of Save the Baby was Dr. William R. Lee, a 1902 graduate of the Columbia University School for Physicians and Surgeons. He built this home in 1915.
Dr. Lee kept his horse and buggy in Frank Kelly's Livery next door. After contracting tuberculosis, he abandoned his medical practice while pursuing a cure. Gradually his condition improved and he became health officer for the Town of Johnsburg.
The original structure had open porches on both floors with Dr. Lee's office in the downstairs front public space. When he contracted tuberculosis, he enclosed two-thirds of his upper porch in glass.
Doctor Lee House
Walgreens
O’Keeffe Opera House
Remember the O’Keeffe Opera House curtain we showed you at the start of this tour? It was here on the second floor that it hung throughout the early decades of the 20th century. At first, this space was called “Higgins Hall” because R.R. Higgins operated a pharmacy on the first floor. In 1917, James O’Keeffe bought the building, and so the space became known as the O’Keeffe Opera House.
In Halfway to Heaven, his memoir about “livin’ in the ‘Crick,’” James’ son, Dan O’Keeffe, describes Saturday nights in the twenties, when all the movies shown here were silent.
“We'd climb the stairs with our dates and a bag of popcorn and watch the movies as the pianists, Blanche Alexander and T. Landon, played the songs of the day and the younger kids read the subtitles out loud. One can imagine the thrill when the "talkies" make their debut in the Crick.”
Izzy’s Market and Deli
Nathan and Millie Braverman opened this building as a dry goods store in 1903. In 1926, it was purchased by Gabra (Ja-bra) Baroudi, a Syrian born in 1872 who was sent to America by his mother at the age of 16 as an escape from constant street fighting with Turks. He was put to work first as a door-to-door salesman between New York City and Albany and, starting in 1925 with four brothers, to establish a series of successful enterprises. We’ll tell you about these shortly.
The Baroudi family turned this building into a market and deli in 1928 and it continued to operate as such until the 1980s. In 2012, Dave and Kathy Waite opened Izzy's with a 100-percent home-cooked menu. The shop's origin as a dry goods store is still evident in the original wooden display counters and built-in cupboards. Note also the original tin ceiling and scroll work under the eaves outside.
Izzy’s Market and Deli
Tops Friendly Market
Adirondack Hotel / Baroudi Block
There was almost no fire-fighting equipment in the Adirondacks at the turn of the 20th century. That made hotels and homes highly vulnerable to the hazards of uncleaned chimneys, mishandled kerosene, and guests who smoked. The origins of these blazes were sometimes suspect, making insurance underwriiters wary of Adirondack real estate.
One impressive structure lost to fire in this section of Main Street was the Adirondack Hotel, a three-story frame structure built around 1885. With accommodations for 100 guests, it became the unofficial headquarters for men employed by the D&H Railroad. It burned in 1916. Then, just three years later, the Straight House burned. That was another large hotel further up the street.
In 1925, the property that the Tops shopping center occupies today was bought by Gabra Baroudi, whom we met earlier. He and his four brothers established so many businesses in this section it came to be known simply as the “Baroudi Block,” offering the Happy Hour Theater, a restaurant, a barbershop, four apartments, and a grocery store that catered to "camps" all the way to Schroon Lake. Baroudi was the first in the area to make a daily run to Albany for fresh produce.
One of the most enterprising entrepreneurs in North Creek, Baroudi entered into a number of real estate ventures and even owned a small factory in Riparius that made bowling pins. Developer Eliot Monter replaced the “Baroudi Block” with this shopping center around the same time he built the Copperfield Inn in 1990.
First, the Adirondack Hotel was built on this site. That was followed by the “Baroudi Block.”
Hewitt-Barbour Garage
Here’s a sad story.
In 1965, Tom "Buck-shot" Butler bought a new green Chevy pick-up truck from Alexander's Garage, which was located up the street where the Tannery Pond Center is now. He was a fireman so, when he heard the fire whistle blow, he immediately responded. He sped to the scene, finding the Hewitt-Barbour Garage engulfed in flames.
“I parked on the right side of the street and rushed to help,” he recalls.
For almost nine hours, Butler and his fellow firefighters fought the blaze, which had blown out the windows of the building across the street. The garage was totally destroyed. When Butler finally was able to go home, he walked across the street to discover that his brand new Chevy — with one-quarter mile on the odometer — had changed in color from “green to burnt.”
Swain’s Funeral Parlor
After purchasing this property from Thomas Durant in 1896, the Swain brothers opened a funeral home here. In addition to selling caskets they sold furniture, bedding supplies, window shades, rugs and carpets, and were agents for pianos and grafonolas, a kind of record player of the day. The upper level is residential with a semi-enclosed porch, and slate roof. The lower commercial space has housed a funeral parlor for more than a century.
Swain’s Funeral Parlor
North Creek National Bank
One day in 1910, Frank Husselback walked into Arbuckle’s Barber Shop, which occupied this spot on Main Street. He represented a group of local businessmen who had joined in creating a bank in North Creek, and they had determined that this would be the ideal place to build it. “Would you be interested in selling?” Mr. Husselback asked Mr. Arbuckle as he was giving a customer a shave. When Mr. Arbuckle said he would, Mr. Husselback asked for his price. When Mr. Arbuckle gave it to him, Mr. Husselback, said “Sold!’ Whereupon, it is reported, Mr. Arbuckle “immediately took off his barber coat, leaving the customer sitting in the chair with lather on his face, and walked out the door.”
The building was sold that day and was soon in business as the North Creek National Bank. In 1927, the bank moved up the street to a new structure on the site of the former Straight House, which was destroyed by fire in 1919. We’ll tell that story when we come to it.
Former home of the North Creek National Bank
The Gables
“The Gables” is the new name Thomas Durant gave the “Coleman House” after he bought it in 1871 and thoroughly renovated it. A compound that ultimately featured stables, greenhouses, a chicken house, and numerous out buildings, the home was located in the open area you'll find behind the Alpine Lodge if you turn left and go down Baroudi Lane. Durant died here on October 6, 1885. Fire claimed the Gables on in 1959, when temperatures sank to near zero in mid-March. Some say the fire was started by a tenant smoking in bed.
Before Thomas Durant bought it, this was the Coleman House.
With major modifications, the Coleman House became the Gables.
To see where The Gables once stood, walk down Baroudi Lane to the rear of the Alpine Lodge.
It was here that Thomas Durant developed The Gables compound.
As you pass the Alpine Lodge, note the Little Red Gondola beside the main entrance. One hundred and ten of these four-passenger cabins were imported from Switzerland in 1969 when the state installed Gore’s first gondola, an immense task that required helicoptering into place 20 30-foot towers. Thirty years later, these small cabins were made obsolete by the eight-passenger cabins we see in today’s Northwoods Gondola. The Olympic Regional Development Authority kept about 70 of the four-passenger cabins to loan out to various organizations in the area. You’ll find them scattered around.
John Wade Building
Cafe Sarah
John Wade was a butcher who opened a meat store here on Christmas morning, 1894. You'd enter it off Circle Avenue. Wade was also an undertaker, and you’d enter his funeral home off Main Street. Later, this building housed the Post Office on the left and the New York Power and Light offices on the right.
On the empty lot to the left of this store, Wade’s son, Charles, owned a grocery, which he advertised on the O’Keeffe Opera House curtain. In the 1950s, that burned along with the Wade Hotel, which was owned at the time by the Farrell family.
When the existing Wade building was renovated for Café Sarah in 2000 by Sarah's dad, Larry Hayden, they had to raise the entire building six inches to rebuild the old foundation. The Fourth of July poster that hangs inside was discovered in the floorboards and apparently dates to 1897. Sara opened the Cafe after an apprenticeship in French pastries at a high-end French restaurant in Seattle. She wanted to run her own bakery and so came back home to launch it. Her maple-glazed cinnamon buns are a local favorite.
Cafe Sarah, and Braley & Noxon Hardware beyond.
Braley & Noxon Hardware
When you cross Circle Avenue, you'll come to Braley and Noxon Hardware, which goes all the way back to 1888 when two cousins in Chestertown -- William Noxon and Alfred Braley -- saw the growth taking place in North Creek and decided to open a hardware store. They put up this building and moved their business into it in 1896. Early inventory included horse-drawn mowing machines, wheelbarrows, grindstones, and wooden barrels, plus hardware and housewares. Braley and Noxon made news in 1901 when they installed acetylene gas for illumination, replacing kerosene lamps.
In the store’s early days, Cora Montgomery ran her millinery shop on the store’s south side. She sold hats for every season, some beautifully trimmed with ostrich feathers, flowers, or both. She priced them at $1.50 and up. Her store is among the ten advertisers featured on the O’Keeffe Opera House curtain, as are Braley and Noxon.
Following William Noxon’s death in 1930, the store was owned and maintained by a series of descendants, including Ernest Noxon and his sisters, Grace, Ruth, and Mary who assumed ownership until 1988, a century from the store’s founding. In 2003, the store was acquired by present owners Richard and Agnes Green.
Look across the street and you’ll see a colorful concrete retaining wall. We suggest you cross for a closer look.
The Mosaic Wall
In 2010, local artist Kate Hartley looked at this concrete wall and saw a huge canvas. Enlisting more than 500 volunteers – local residents, seasonal visitors, students and artists, she created this masterpiece, representing natural resources and recreational opportunities in the area. At 180 feet, it’s the largest piece of public art in the North Country. The 10-year project was completed in the fall of 2020.
Some have wondered how many tiles and bits of glass and seashells are incorporated in the mural. In 2016 the local seventh grade took on the challenge. According to their best calculation, the total number comes to 159,374 individual pieces.
The Mosaic Wall
Bottoms Up Building
This three-story structure with a slate roof and porches on all three levels has the distinction of having its floor level raised as added space was added. What is now the third floor was originally at ground level.
Built prior to 1893, its owner, Lou Pereau, owned land only to where "the building's eaves dripped," so adding on meant going up. This "bottoms up" building once housed a fuel company, early telephone offices, and apartments.
If we continue on the west side of Main Street, we come to the United Methodist Church and its parsonage on the right. This was where Howard and Bertha Kenyon ran their business in lumber and “ladies and gents furnishings,” which they advertised on the O’Keeffe Opera House curtain. After Bertha’s death, the church acquired the property to build a new parsonage because the one across the street had been destroyed by fire.
Community Bank
Back on the east side of Main Street, we come to Community Bank, which formerly was the North Creek National Bank, located where Arbuckle’s Barber Shop used to be. Among its many iterations since then: First Trust of Albany, Bankers Trust, Key Bank, First American, Albank, and Charter One.
Before there was a bank building here, there was the Straight House, a large three-story hotel with 30 rooms. Heated by wood stoves, it burned to the ground in the winter of 1919.
As you cross Bridge Street, note that you've almost returned to the place you started. As you'll recall, it was on Bridge Street that Milton Sawyer and Wheeler Meade built their tannery in 1852. To see its exact location, stroll down a ways to the North Creek Laundromat. That's where it was.
Note also this vacant lot beside the Tannery Pond Center. This was where the Cunningham General Store stood back in 1934 when the first Snow Train came to North Creek and there was a big run on ski equipment, such as it existed back in those early days. Over time, it became less and less a general store and more and more a ski shop. The business is still going strong as Cunningham's Ski Barn, which you probably saw on your right coming into town on Route 28.
Straight House
Cunningham’s General Store
Cunningham’s General Store was a traditional Adirondack mercantile business that carried just about everything a family might need — food, clothing, dry goods, and wallpaper. Lots of wallpaper. That’s because most people had wood stoves, which coated the walls with so much soot that many wallpapered their kitchens every year. Sold in bulk, cookies, cheese and cold cuts were bagged or sliced as customers wanted. Potatoes were packed and sold in brown paper bags — 15 pounds or a “peck”.
Glass and foodwares were on the left. Clothing and outdoor were in the middle. Skis and related equipment were in a small room in back.
Patrick J. Cunningham started the store with his wife Catherine in 1908. His son, Butler, joined him in developing it into the major ski retail business it has become over 90 years.
The pivotal moment in this story arrived with the 1932 Lake Placid Olympics, which Butler attended with Kenneth Bennett, Howard and Guy Alexander, Lee Hewitt, Art Prescott, Dr. Braley and others.
Here’s Dick Cunningham, son of Butler:
"The Depression was really horrible. In economics, they talk about the velocity of money. Well, there wasn't any money so there wasn't much velocity. My dad sold anything you could buy at a general store -- skis, meat -- and they might take in $15 or $30 for the day.
“Now you had the Olympics. This was so exciting. 'Let's go! Let's see it!' But these young men didn't go in style. They took their tents and sleeping bags. They tented outside and went to all the events. When they came back to North Creek, they said, 'Winter doesn't have to be terrible. Life doesn't have to be boring. We've got a great mountain. We even have a road up the mountain and there are trails because they logged that whole side of the mountain and they could come down those log roads."
The Cunningham family's involvement in skiing and the shop's operations continued for generations. Pat Cunningham, a former member of the U.S. ski team, took over the business in the 1950s and managed it until 2019. Throughout its history, Cunningham's Ski Barn has not only been a commercial entity but also a significant part of the local skiing community and history.
Town Hall and Library
Pereau's Garage
Having returned to the start of our loop, we'll tell you the interesting story of Town Hall and the Town Library beside it.
A.J. Petty had a carriage shop here in 1895. Then Louis Pereau and his sons Claude and Charles turned it into a garage and a showroom for Ford, Overland, Maxwell, and Studebaker cars and trucks. Claude Pereau’s home stood on the right before it was torn down and replaced with a parking lot.
Where the library’s parking lot now sits, George and Grace Saunders offered sandwiches, donuts and coffee at the Ideal Lunchroom. An early version of McDonald’s, they even offered window service.
The old garage was later torn down, but the former car sales room was renovated in the late 1950s for use as the town hall. In 1996, the library moved into the building as well.
Having followed the Hudson Riverwalk in one direction along North Creek, perhaps you'll have the interest and energy to go in the other along the scenic Carol Thomas Memorial Trail, which in just a quarter mile will take you beneath Route 28 to Ski Bowl Park. There you'll find additional opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, swimming, and winter recreation.
This concludes our tour. Thanks for joining us.
Acknowledgements
The publications pictured here have been invaluable sources in developing this tour. We’ve also drawn on interviews, talks and correspondence with Sterling Goodspeed, Glenn Pearsall, Deana Wood, Greg Schaefer, Tom Butler, Laurie Arnheiter, Jon Patton, Candice Murray, Deborah Cunningham, Dick Cunningham and Bill Waddell. Thanks to all for their assistance.
Drop Us a Note
We’d like to know more about all of the places and people we’ve spotlighted thus far in our tour.
If you have any stories or historical tidbits you’d like to share in this project, please send them along. Many thanks.